The Strange Case of Pinot Gris Grigio
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From supermarket staple to serious foodie wines, Pinot Gris / Grigio has a split personality that offers endless tasting experiences.
One of the things I love most about wine is its capability to shock and surprise. My first taste of Pinot Gris was at a tasting exploring the noble grapes of the Alsace region when I was beginning to get serious about wine.
I couldn’t get my head around the fact that this rich and age-worthy wine was made from the same grape as the crisp, light Italian plonk I’d knocked back in years gone by at picnics with friends or on a cheap date at Pizza Express.
It's little wonder that many people don’t realise that Pinot Gris, as it is known in France, is exactly the same grape as Italian supermarket staple Pinot Grigio because, while the grapes are genetically identical, they have completely different personalities – the Dr Jekyll & Mr Hyde of wine, if you will.
One and the same, for the purpose of this article, I will, on occasion, refer to the grape as Pinot Gris / Grigio.
Explore Pinot Gris / Grigio wines
What is Pinot Gris / Grigio?
The early ripening grape is a mutation of Pinot Noir, which gives it its characteristic greyish-blue tint (hence the "Gris" or "Grigio" name) and it is believed to have originated in Burgundy, where the earliest records of Pinot Gris / Grigio appeared in the 13th century.
By the next century, it was well established in France (where it can also be called Tokay-Pinot Gris, Pinot Beurot or Auvernat Gris), Germany (Grauburgunder or Ruländer), and Switzerland (Malvoisie). Until the Phylloxera outbreak in the 19th century, Pinot Gris particularly thrived in Burgundy and Champagne but didn’t take well to hybrid grafting to American root stock here and was gradually replaced by Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
It fared better in the cooler climate of Alsace however and it is now one of the region’s most revered grape varieties. The grape crossed The Alps into northern Italy in the 19th century but didn’t become prominent here until the 20th century when winemakers in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Trentino-Alto Adige, and Veneto regions recognised Pinot Grigio’s potential to appeal to international palates.
Pinot Gris / Grigio – what’s the difference?
In Italy, particularly in the cooler Alto Adige and Friuli Venezia Giulia regions, where grapes ripen more slowly and retain their natural acidity, the wines are light, crisp, refreshing, and approachable (by that I mean quaffable). Pale in colour and made to drink young, Pinot Grigio is a crowd-pleasing wine, often with notes of lemon zest, green apple and a touch of pear making it great for drinking in warmer weather.
San Antini Pinot Grigio 2023, Sicily
£10.35
A 100% Pinot Grigio made in Sicily using Italy's flagship white grape. Transport yourself to the vibrant bars in Italy's market towns with this crisp,...… read more
If you look beyond the generic bottles you find in the supermarkets, you can find some great quality expressions. Single varietal Pinot Grigio wines are great on their own or paired with light dishes such as white fish, grilled chicken and Caesar salad. Blended versions, which often include Garganega or other indigenous Italian grape varieties, are ideal if you prefer wines with more texture.
In Alsace, Pinot Gris takes on a completely different character. Wines from here are deeper in colour, fuller-bodied and more complex, with layers of honey, baked apple, and sometimes slight spiciness.
They’re richer and rounder with texture that coats the mouth in the most luxurious way. Grapes ripen more fully here and therefore the wines can reach higher alcohol levels making them suitable for aging. Over time the wines develop even more nuanced and honeyed flavours. The richness of wines from Alsace makes them well suited to creamy dishes and you could even pair with food you might ordinarily pair red wine with, such as pies, terrines and smoked meats.
Guises of the New World
More modern interpretations can be found in regions such as Oregon in America and Marlborough in New Zealand. In these regions, winemakers have combined the varying characteristics of both Italian and Alsace styles to create the perfect Pinot Gris / Grigio fusion. Expect the refreshing acidity and bright citrus and pear notes of Italy but with more weight and a rounded mouthfeel reminiscent of Alsace, often a product of partial oak aging or lees stirring.
Awatere River Pinot Gris 2020, Marlborough
£15.75
Standing proud at the head of Marlborough’s Awatere Valley is Mount Tapuae-o-uenuku - the highest peak outside of New Zealand’s Main Divide. Its glaciers feed...… read more
Awatere River Pinot Gris, from Marlborough sits slightly closer to the Alsace style with a silky, textural palate but its fresh lively flavours give a nod to Italy. Plantings of Pinot Gris are also ramping up in the UK, where winemakers, are using the advantage of freedom in winemaking to experiment. Sharpham Pinot Gris Wild Ferment "Little Bee" is one such example, where assistant winemaker, Charlie Brown has created a skin-contact natural wine.
Sharpham Pinot Gris Wild Ferment "Little Bee" 2022, Devon
£20.65
This is an exciting depature from the normal style of Sharpham wine. It is the brainchild of the young and dynamic assitant winemaker, Charlie Brown....… read more
So, whatever your personality, or mood, give the world of Pinot Gris Grigio a try – there’s bound to be a version to suit.
