A guide to Beaujolais wine

A Brief History

This is a region that has drifted in and out of fashion.

During the Gallic Wars the Romans realised the potential of the area and many villages can trace their names back to Roman soldiers who chose to settle here.

In the Middle Ages subsequent rulers flip-flopped between loving and hating the local wine. King Louis XIII would only serve it at his table, whilst the Duke of Burgundy, Philip the Bold, decreed that all the Gamay vines must be ripped up.

At the start of the 20th century the cru wines were held in similar prestige to those from Burgundy. At auction in 1932 it cost the same to buy one hectare in Morgon as one hectare in Burgundy. Now, land in Burgundy can be hundreds of times more expensive.

In the 1990s Beaujolais Nouveau was a household name. By the early noughties it was deemed passé, and the wider region was often unfairly judged by its simplest wines.

Today, growers are putting renewed emphasis on individual vineyards, old vines and the differences between villages and crus. There is much more here than Nouveau.

Where is Beaujolais?

The vineyards stretch north to south over 55 kilometres, bordered to the west by the foothills of the Massif Central and to the east by the Saône river. The vines are planted on rolling hills and, on a clear day, you can see the distant Alps and Mont Blanc.

The landscape changes as you travel south. The north is hillier and contains the ten crus, while the south is known for the glowing golden stone of the Pierres Dorées.

The region is subject to France’s three main climatic influences: continental currents, oceanic air movements and Mediterranean winds. The Haut-Beaujolais hills offer some protection, while the Saône helps moderate temperature differences.

What is Beaujolais?

For red and rosé wines, the defining grape is Gamay. Chardonnay is used for the region’s much smaller production of white wine.

The broadest classification is AOC Beaujolais, covering 96 communes. Reds, rosés and whites can all be made within the appellation.

AOC Beaujolais-Villages covers selected villages, predominantly in the northern part of the region. The wines often offer a little more concentration and structure while retaining the fresh fruit that makes Gamay so approachable.

White wines are labelled Beaujolais Blanc. Made from Chardonnay, they can be a useful alternative for drinkers who enjoy fresh, unoaked or lightly handled white Burgundy.

Above the regional and Villages appellations sit the ten crus. These are named villages with their own appellations, producing red wines from Gamay.

Gamay, or to give it its full name Gamay Noir À Jus Blanc, has been the main red grape planted here since the 17th century. It naturally gives bright fruit and fresh acidity, but site and winemaking can take it from light, fragrant wines to considerably more structured examples.

Villages or Cru: which should you choose?

If you want a fresh, straightforward red for drinking young, start with regional Beaujolais. These wines tend to put juicy fruit and easy drinking ahead of structure.

Beaujolais-Villages is a useful step up when you want the same freshness with a little more concentration. It is often a good all-round choice for charcuterie, roast chicken, pork and other simple dishes.

The ten Crus are where the differences between individual places become much more important. A light, fragrant Chiroubles is a very different proposition from a deeper Morgon or structured Moulin-à-Vent. The cru name on the label tells you where the wine comes from rather than simply indicating a higher quality tier.

Price can be a useful clue, but style matters more. Someone looking for a delicate red may prefer Fleurie or Chiroubles, while a drinker who normally chooses more structured reds might find Morgon, Chénas or Moulin-à-Vent a better starting point.

What is Beaujolais Nouveau?

For centuries, St Martin’s Day on 11 November celebrated the end of the wine-growing year and the release of the “new wine”. In 1951 growers began commercialising this tradition by selling the new vintage to the bistros of Lyon.

Thanks in large part to Georges Dubœuf, Nouveau subsequently became an international event. Since 1985 the release has taken place on the third Thursday in November. For more on the tradition, the current vintage and how the wine is made, read our guide to Beaujolais Nouveau.

What is Carbonic Maceration?

Carbonic maceration is a way of fermenting whole bunches of grapes in a vessel filled with carbon dioxide. Fermentation begins inside the intact berries before they are crushed, helping to produce very aromatic wines with bright fruit and relatively soft tannins.

In the region, semi-carbonic maceration is more common. Whole bunches are put into the vat without deliberately filling it with carbon dioxide. The weight of the grapes crushes some berries at the bottom, conventional fermentation begins, and the carbon dioxide it produces creates the conditions for fermentation within the intact berries above.

The technique suits Gamay particularly well. It can emphasise fresh red fruit and floral aromas while extracting less tannin than a conventional fermentation. It is strongly associated with Nouveau, but it is not limited to simple or early-drinking wines. Producers vary the length of maceration, extraction and subsequent ageing according to the vineyard and the style they want to make.

What Are the Ten Crus?

From south to north, the ten crus are Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly, Régnié, Morgon, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Moulin-à-Vent, Chénas, Juliénas and Saint-Amour. Each is its own appellation and produces red wine from Gamay.

They are worth thinking of as different places rather than a simple ladder. Brouilly can be generous and approachable; Chiroubles is often lighter and more fragrant; Fleurie is known for perfume and silky texture; Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent can be deeper and more structured. Producer and vineyard still matter, but the cru gives you a useful indication of style.

If you are deciding which style or cru to try, see our Beaujolais wines to try, from Beaujolais-Villages through to more structured cru wines.

Browse our full selection of Beaujolais wines

I hope this guide has given you a clearer idea of what to look for, whether you want a fresh bottle for tonight or a more structured cru to explore.

Santé!