Rosé Wines, get ready for summer
I remeber rosé wines reaching the UK in the heady days of the 1970’s.
Some readers will remember, but for those neither born nor imbibing, the phenomenon came upon us when the iconic brand Mateus Rosé flooded the market with their green flask-shaped bottles. Here was a slightly petillant, off dry rosé.
How fashion has moved on! Today it is the achingly pale rosé wines of Provence that set the standard.
Read on for my guide to which bottles I'll be opening this summer.
A quick history of rosé wine
The modern, pale, rosé style is actually based on authentic wines of the past.
Why so?
Original rosé wines most probably came from the middle east where co-harvesting and co-fermenting red and white grapes was the norm (a rudimentary kind of field blend).
Basic foot trodden pressing would have given a light pinkish coloured wine that became a common beverage throughout the ancient wine-making world.
Fast forward to the development of trade in the Mediterranean when first the Greeks and later, the Romans, used the Port of Marseilles. Here they discovered the local wines were also pink but, importantly, of a better quality. By using thick-skinned red grapes from the local vineyards these erstwhile vignerons created a much more sophisticated pink wine. And it has remained thus!
The fashion for pale rosé
For many years the ubiquitous paler style of rosé was unique to Provence. Seeing its popularity, other parts of France started to develop lighter-coloured rosé wines.
Provence remained in the vanguard thanks to its fashionable Mediterranean resorts, which made pale rosé synonymous with rest, relaxation, and luxury.
What does one drink whilst relaxing on a yatch? Provencal rosé, of course!
Other European wine regions became fascinated with this better-quality pink wine and duly started (albeit on a small scale) to create thier own rosé wines.
A new revolution
We are now in the middle of a new rosé wine revolution as most winemaking countries have perfected their own versions. Sparkling wines have also delved deeply into this popular style of rosé wine and top, stylistic examples abound.
Read on for my selection of the best rosé wines to toast the summer.
The fashionable one
As Matthew Jukes wrote recently: "Rose petal aromas, melon flesh silkiness, and grapefruit acidity are all in place, and they are layered, glisteningly attractive, and immediately impressive".
It sounds delectable, but that's not why you drink Whispering Angel, is it?
No!
This is a fashion icon, no summer soiree would be complete without a bottle.
Whispering Angel Rosé, Côtes de Provence
£22.50
The appellation of Côtes de Provence covers a wide swathe of Provençal vineyard from Aix east to Cannes. It is renowned for its pale, dry...… read more
The under-rated one
Not many poeple know the tiny Rhone appellation of Lirac. If you do, it's probably thanks to its bold reds which are a great alternative to Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The terroir here is rounded galets (pebbles), which reflect the sun during the day and release heat during the night.
"La Fermade" Lirac Rosé shows how great this appellation can be.
Talented winemaker, Richard Maby, was named as the best winemaker in the region by Guide Hachette (aka the French wine bible) in 2021. He has crafted a wine in stylish pale pink. The bouquet is bright berry fruit, the palate is full and fruity with undertones of rosehips and redcurrants. Delicious.
Domaine Maby "La Fermade" Rosé 2023, Lirac
£17.50
Here is a full bodied rosé made from a blend of Cinsault (80%) and Grenache (20%). The vineyards are in the Southern Rhône village of...… read more
The great value one
Languedoc is a great place to hunt for good value. Le Versant Rosé is a food-friendly, 100% Grenache rosé from Foncalieu, a cooperative in Arzens. This is a hot part of the continent perfect for the gnarly old vines.
With its copper hue Le Versant offers the taster a glimpse into a single varietal style of modern winemaking showing complex red fruits and spice. Great with marinated mackerel or BBQ’d herby chicken.
Le Versant Grenache Rosé 2022, Languedoc
£12.00
This rosé from the south of France has a delicate pale pink colour with salmon hints. The deliciously perfumed nose combines hints of strawberries and...… read more
The English one
Next, to Devon and the eponymous Lyme Bay Winery. This has been an excellent year for them as they have scooped loads of national awards for their range.
Lyme Bay Pinot Noir Rosé shows off a most gentle stylistic style with hints of strawberries and cream. This is truly elegant and easily paired with summer salads or soft English cheese.
Lyme Bay Pinot Noir Rosé 2022, Devon
£22.20
This is a refined and elegant rosé with subtle notes of red berry fruit and a soft creamy finish on the palate. It is made...… read more
The fizzy one
Finally, Cava.
Spanish fizz is a little maligned in the UK, seen by many as cheap and cheerful. However, it's actually made using the same method as Champagne and as such offers the discerning drinker a wine of distinction.
Winemakers Jesús Prieto, Juan García and Javier Domeque have produced a pale pink Spanish sparkler. Gran Ducay Brut Nature Rosado Cava is made from 100% Garnacha grapes which are left on their skins to allow the colour to bleed into the juice. This soft approach gives subtle red fruit flavours of wild strawberry and redcurrant with a wonderfully creamy texture and the characteristic nutty, savouriness of Cava.
Gran Ducay Brut Nature Rosado Cava NV
£12.50
Often Spanish rosado wines can have a bold colour, but here winemakers Jesús Prieto, Juan García and Javier Domeque have produced a pale pink Spanish...… read more
